The old saga tells about a Nordic land called Iceland. It tells from the long ago times when the Gods of the Asen dynasty ruled over the world. Chief of the Asen Gods was Odin, also called Woden. He was the mighty God of the war, but also God of the wind, the death and the wild hunt. He resided high above the clouds on Mount Asgard.

Below Gimli Peak

Again it’s a hot midsummer day when we leave. Our heavy backpacks make us much slower than the day hikers who easily overtake with their light gear. Up to Gimli ridge we follow the well prepared trail. Mulvey Basin lies below our feet, most lakes are still covered with ice. Here the trail ends; from now on we have to find our route. We carefully descend into the basin over the steep North Slope. It’s still covered with good packed snow, ice appears only in a few spots and we master the way down without ice climbing gear.

Sunset Below Gimli
in Mulvey Basin

On Top of Mount Asgard

Armand’s hiking boots are falling apart; the sole is separating from the shoe. Henry tries a repair with his Swiss army knife and nylon rod, but we know that the boots will not stand the whole trip.

Our next day’s route leads us through old mountain forest before we have to master a rock field. The boulders are so big, that it appears as if the gods themselves have fought a stone battle against their enemies just here.

The route leads up and down to Drinnon Pass. We are the only visitors. Blooming heather bushes in all kinds of red, pink and white border the small lakes, at night time a big mule deer buck starts digging close to our tents and a porcupine walks by.

We have to leave Armand behind here at Drinnon Pass. He accompanies us up into Gwillim Lakes Basin; then we head into opposite directions. Henry and I move north-west. We arrange to pick up Armand in three days at Drinnon trailhead.

Some scrambling brings Henry and me into the next valley. From here we have to traverse a long north hang stretch on our way to McKean Lakes. We set camp half way after we followed a deer trail which turned out to be the only way to pass a narrow gorge.

Our traverse continues all the next day. After long hiking hours we reach Woden Pass below massive Mount Woden before we begin descending into McKean Lakes valley.

We enjoy our last camp in the beautiful scenery and under a wonderful sky painted with sparkling stars while our thoughts take us back to the adventure of the last days. The weather was just perfect, biting insects were not too bad and the remote wilderness once again lived up to the Park of the Gods’ name.

Elisabeth von Ah

Our Daily Stages :

1.Day: Gimli Trailhead - Mulvey Basin

2.Day: Climbing the top of Mount Asgard

3.Day: Mulvey Basin - Valhalla Lake

4.Day: Valhalla Lake - Drinnon Pass

5.Day: Drinnon Pass - half way McKean Lakes

6.Day: To McKean Lakes

7.Day: To McKean Lakes Trailhead at Koch Creek

Start at Gimli Trailhead

In the last week of July 2004 we get our pack together to traverse the Park of the Gods again, this time from east to west. We are thee, Henry, Armand and I. Starting point is Gimli trail. How often have we hiked Gimli. We also have climbed its peak and enjoyed the incredible vistas in all directions of Valhalla Park. So we know what to expect at least at the beginning of our tour.

Mount Asgard

On Top of Mount Asgard

We set up our first camp between Gimli and Asgard under the mighty wall of Gladsheim in Mulvey Basin. A rising moon appears behind Gimli’s wall and covers the landscape with an almost unreal light. On the next day we climb Mount Asgard with light day pack. The view from its top into all directions is unbelievable and we truly regard ourselves as guests in Odin’s hall of fame. A while later a fire appears in the West. Fog and mist eliminates the sight and in not time we are surrounded by clouds. We accept Odin’s warning – it’s time to return to our camp in Mulvey Basin.

The next morning the air is clear again. We break camp and ascend Asgard Pass. The tops of the bizarre Devil’s Couch are in front of us. Again a quick descend along a snow covered north slope. We pass romantic valleys with small creeks and flower patches before we have to climb up to the pass leading into Valhalla Lake valley. This night our camp is in an unbelievably beautiful setting with small lakes bordered by smooth rocks, singing brooks and scenting flowers. The light of the full moon enlightens the bright night.

Gimli Ridge

Valhalla Lake

Camp at Drinnon Pass

Gwillim Lakes

Woden Peak and Woden Pass von den
View from McKean Lakes